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Notes From Hairenik
November 30, 2004
Minibuses and Taxis
Although I vowed never to set foot into a Yerevan minibus again after my arrival two months ago, I now find myself taking back my word after realizing the costs of transportation by taxi. I finally chose to abandon traveling by minibus after becoming involved in several arguments with drivers for overfilling beyond the accepted capacity by law and also common sense. Too many times have I sat in minibuses only to have someone else sit on my lap or kneel in front of me, or even stand on the step at the passenger sliding door. Last winter there were at least two reports of fatal accidents occurring when two overfilled minibuses tipped over, killing nearly everyone inside. A municipal law was passed forbidding drivers from packing their minibuses, which was enforced strictly for several months, but now I see that when such minibuses are pulled over the driver steps out to shake the officer’s hand palming a few thousand dram, then goes on his way. Passengers are also equally to blame, failing to wait a few minutes more for a less-crowded minibus. But many travelers, especially women, are in too much of a hurry with no where especially urgent to go, manage to cram themselves in quite uncomfortably for everyone inside, thus the continuing “vochinch” mentality.

Now I wait at the bus stop for several minutes until I find a minibus that seems to be reasonably tolerable to sit on, preferably one that has an empty front passenger seat. That way I do not have to deal with who is kneeling where or how an older woman with a wide behind is going to share a narrow, rickety seat with a 17-year-old girl holding on her lap two full-sized shopping bags filled with turnips, potatoes, “basturma”, cabbage, and laundry detergent.

The cost of a one-way fare by minibus—from any one stop to the next on a particular route is 100 dram, the approximate equivalent of $.20. Taxis by order usually cost 100 dram per kilometer, with a flat fee of 600 dram, or about a $1.20. The distance from Central Yerevan to ‘Raikom’ is about six-seven kilometers, depending on where you are coming from, and the maximum fee is about 800 dram. But if you pick up a taxi on the street, depending on how honest the driver is and whether his car runs on propane gas or gasoline, the cost for the same distance will be anywhere from 1000-2000 dram, even more. At one time I found myself spending at least 1600 dram or more a day on taxi rides, and sometimes as high as 5000 dram, which I spent the other day when traveling to Ejmiatsin to make arrangements at St. Hripsime church for Karen’s wedding. So my VIP days are suspended until further notice, especially when I move back to the center, where I can depend on my legs to get me where I want to go.

To go by foot to Raikom is not as easy. The shortest way to that area is to drive up Freedom Drive—a good 1.5 kilometer climb until reaching Victory Park—then through the ‘Monument” residential district before finally reaching Raikom, which is another 2-3 km. But walking up Freedom Drive is treacherous and even stupid as there is no sidewalk at all and cars are constantly competing with one another for road dominance in both directions—auto accidents are not infrequent on this stretch. Thus the only alternative, which is not too daunting, is to take on the Cascade monument head on, either by foot the whole way which is madness, or by the renovated escalator system housed inside, opened sometime last year. It takes about 15 minutes to ride the escalators comfortably along the 1+ km distance, and then once at the top of the still unfinished Cascade steps it is another 300 meters or more on foot until reaching the war monument overlooking Mount Ararat and the entrance of Victory Park just across the way. I have had a few occasions to travel from the center this way with about 45 minutes to kill and it is quite pleasant. I can’t wait to try walking up towards Raikom from Victory Park with six inches of snow and ice on the ground.

In order to understand one facet of what daily life is like for hundreds of thousands of citizens in Yerevan, it is necessary to travel by minibus twice a day every day for at least one week. It is a pity that I only remember seeing one fellow diasporan Armenian already seated on a minibus when I stepped on traveling along Marshal Baghramian Avenue towards Friendship Square, just over two years ago. There seems to be an aversion to the minibus from outsiders, with the assumption that it may be too common a way to travel for them. Then again, very rarely do I see diasporan Armenians outside of Central Yerevan for that matter, and even then only confined to certain sections or avenues. The minibus system is one of the most complicated yet extraordinarily convenient and affordable means of transportation I have ever come across or heard about. There are hundreds of routes that literally zigzag through the city. Those that go though Central Yerevan most certain pass by at least two of three important bus stops: Cinema Russia just across from St. Gregory the Illuminator cathedral, Opera Square smack dab in the middle of the center, and Freedom Square, at the top of Baghramian Avenue. Several routes bypass the center altogether and only run cross-town connecting the Malatia-Sepastia (a.k.a. Bangladesh) and Zeitoun municipal districts, for example. I noticed there is a method to the minibus route madness, for example routes that ended in a six, namely the 86 or 96, travel towards Central Yerevan by way of Gomidas Avenue, which turns into Baghramian after crossing Friendship Square. Those routes that end in a five, such as the 45 or 95, head towards the center by means of Freedom Drive, but so does the 33 for that matter, which is the only route number that ends with a three traveling from Raikom, from what I know.

Another mode of transporation which is relatively fast and reliable is the Karen Demirchian Metropolitan, more commonly known as the metro. The fare is only 50 dram, and trains arrive at each station on average every five minutes. The single route travels from northbound Friendship Square to southbound Karekin Njdeh Square, located in the "Third District" of Yerevan.

Yet traveling by minibus or metro, although not expensive at all compared to similar modes of transportation in the West, will exceedingly become less affordable for everyday citizens due to the sharp deflation of the dollar, the dollar-to-dram exchange rate dropping from 505 dram 15 days ago to 490 dram today. As a result the vast majority of citizens will have much less money to spend on groceries, considering that a kilogram of bread costs as high as a dollar, and that the monthly salary rate still considered to be normally accepted is about $60 or slightly more. However, prices for foodstuffs, namely the cost of bread—the most important diet staple in Armenia with the potato as the second—have not yet succumbed to inflation—at least for now.

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Posted by Christian Garbis at 10:55 AM.
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November 22, 2004
'Vochinch'
I want to stress the difficulties I have had of late with overcoming a profound sense of complacency amongst the youth here, particularly the male youth. There is a strong tendency for young men to adopt a policy of indifference regarding circumstances circulating in their own environment—whether political, social or cultural—and even regarding their own lives. But this complacent mentality is also predominant amongst parents, many of whom are unable abandon what life was like in their Soviet past and look forward to achieve what is possible comparable to their resources. I have labeled this mentality, which is paralyzing the socio-political movement of Armenia, the "vochinch" mentality.

"Vochinch" can be translated from the Armenian in several ways, depending on the occasion it is used. The direct English translation is "nothing," yet infrequently is it used in this context in conversation. More commonly, "vochinch" is used to express unconcern, as are the terms "whatever", "it doesn't matter", or even "don't worry about it" in English lexicon. "Vochinch" is also used to describe something as being "okay" or "so-so" in response to an inquiry regarding the quality of a good or service, and can also vary in degrees of acceptance based on the mood of the respondent.

This term is thrown around numerous times each day by a good number of Armenian citizens, and depending on the person the context in which it is used varies. I myself have also conceded to using the term in the "okay" and "don't worry about it" contexts, but do not consider myself as being complacent, at least regarding Armenia's society and development potential. However, the sense of indifference that is generally attached to the usage of this term is unmistakable, and it has long been a complaint of mine.

I have taken surveys amongst various youth during the last three years or so and an overwhelming majority feels that there is little to no way to change the system in which they live, and no job opportunities exist for them. Yet some of them make no strides in finding ways in which to overturn their misfortune or seek opportunities that are not obvious to them. I have even spoken to young men and women living and working in the US who have no intention of returning to Armenia as they insist there is nothing to return to, and that there is nothing they can to do live normally, without fear of corruption interfering in some capacity. But when I dig deeper, I cannot find any concrete reasons for their stances.

The main indicator of this “vochinch” phenomenon amongst the youth is the fact that there are virtually no youth actively involved in politics in Armenia. Parliament members are typically over 40 and have no appeal to younger generations. Rather than mobilizing, the youth remain silent regarding all politics, as they believe that the system cannot change, and that it is futile to even try. Or, they are simply uninterested.

I do not blame the youth for being frustrated with their government and the weak presence of law and order. But fear and indifference is not making their lives easier. They fear being oppressed, either by physical force or socioeconomics, thus they do not attempt to make changes from within. Those that have an inkling to get out of the country and the option to leave do. And I do not see any movements amongst the youth to activate and set into motion the change they expect to be realized.

Yet I have meet several people, and I have had the good fortune of developing friendships with some, that are willing to continue their lives in Armenia, with no intention of leaving or giving in to indifference. They obtain the training and education necessary in order to land the job opportunities that are available. They stay close to their families, and ensure that their homes are secure. And they do believe that things will change in their society and government, albeit slowly and by the hands of a few.

By far, young journalists are the greatest opponents of the “vochinch” mentality, but this same spirit can also be found in people working in civil society-building organizations working throughout the country, and even in the youth working in the services industry. So as much as “vochinch” seems to be spreading, there is a counterweight that is becoming heavier by the day with each fresh news report about governmental corruption and suppression of free speech through harassment.

The “vochinch” mentality and its scope will further be explored in future log entries.

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Posted by Christian Garbis at 1:59 PM.
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November 16, 2004
November 13
In the Minasian’s home in the “Raikom” district of Yerevan, about 2 kilometers north of Victory Park, there are micro particles of cement dust flying everywhere, being tracked around the apartment and inhaled by everyone. The remodeling of the bathroom, which has been completely gutted out, save for the toilet kept separately in a closet, has being going on for nearly four weeks, the schedule for completion set back due to an incompetent tile setter who, as it turned out, had no experience at all. I relieve the dry throat that I frequently develop during the course of the day by drinking several glasses of juice or water, usually Jermuk, the lightly carbonated mineral water bottled in the town of the same name, 200 kilometers (or more) southeast of Yerevan. Rosehip is usually my choice of juice—it reminds me of cranberry juice, but does not have that same blood-red color and tartness. Depending on the company producing it, the flavor can be very sweet or mild, so that you can actually taste the faintly rosy aroma of the fruit.

There was much activity during the morning hours running into early afternoon in the Minasian household. Sergey and I talked about various topics, most of them dealing with the mentality of people regarding his own benevolence and economical insight. He and I believe that in general the government-accepted standard minimum salary for workers, about $50, is generally unacceptable and a step has to be taken to contradict this discrepancy between low wages and increasing food prices. He is considering to hire a 24-hour watchman to guard his trailer out on the farmland and also protect his property, particularly his mulberry trees that he has planted himself, from being cut for firewood or out of spite. In general there is a resentment amongst the town residents in Voskedab, located in the Ararat valley and is the same town in which he was born and raised. They believe he has come from Yerevan with grandiose ideas to cultivate their own land, the same that they cannot afford or have no intention to cultivate. It has been 8 years that he has been farming in Voskedab, yet the townsfolk generally do not commend his efforts and instead resent him.

So when I told him that the guard should receive a minimum of $100 a month, he agreed with me, but said he would only pay him $200 for four months of work, once he selected the right candidate. He told me that people do not understand why they receive higher wages than expected. If he doubles the salary of, say, a crop picker, not only are they suspicious of what his intentions are, but other farmers begin to curse him, as they cannot compete with his salary rates. In some instances workers have even demanded that he pay 50% more than what he offered and were thereby dismissed for being greedy. He told me that as much as he wanted the system to change and for workers to make more money commensurate with rising living costs, people cannot comprehend the necessity to increase salaries down the line. Thus the economy as a whole remains stagnant, with suspected millions of untaxed dollars floating in a shadow economy, believed to be deposited into foreign banking accounts by wealthy oligarchs with close ties to the government.

Corruption is a business in Armenia by which government officials and parliamentarians alike earn a steady, far-from-modest income. Yet as much as citizens and observers criticize, no action is taken to reverse corrupt practices, which are also rampant throughout the entire law enforcement system. Sergey’s brother Karlin, who lives in their childhood home in Voskedab and was primarily responsible for taking care of their mother until her death three weeks ago, believes that if corruption was eradicated throughout both the judicial and police departments, the other systems of corruption would dissolve, albeit gradually. The entire economical scheme of Armenia is so complex and so riddled by corruption that it is virtually impossible to determine how real effective strides can be taken to abolish it.

While visiting Voskedab yesterday with Sergey as well as his son Karen, for whom I have been designated as godfather, we inquired about a vehicle for sale for me to drive commonly known as the Lada/Zhiguli Model 08, first introduced in the Soviet Union in 1988 but continued to be produced until only a few years ago. It is said that the car is about 10 years old and in very good condition inside and out, but I have been advised by Karlin to stay away from it as it has most likely been abused by the rough unpaved inside roads found from Ardashat to Ararat. But the car is selling for $1800, which is a good price considering the fact that older models sell for as high as $2800 in the open auto markets in Yerevan, as the prices for vehicles have generally skyrocketed, the reasons for which no one can seem to determine. Sergey knows of a neighbor who is selling his Model 2107, also introduced by Lada in the Soviet era but still produced today. The price is roughly $3500, as it is in very good to excellent condition with only 40,000 kilometers having been driven. But there may be ways in which to get around paying the steep price by offering to rent the car at a monthly rate of $100. I will undoubted be able to actually see the car within the next few days. Sergey also told me that he heard of a Lada Niva, a 4x4 Jeep-like vehicle that was only about five years old, being sold for around $2000. New models sell for about $7500 or slightly more.

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Posted by Christian Garbis at 1:32 PM.
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November 12, 2004
Welcome
I would like to welcome you to the online version of Notes From Hairenik. This blog is a virtual continuation of my column of the same name, which appeared in the Armenian Weekly, printed in Boston, Massachusetts. It touched upon various social, political, environmental, and benevolent-related issues as I perceived them during my stay in 2002. Often conversations with Armenian citizens regarding their own daily lives and undertakings were worked into the subjects of the columns, which varied from week to week. The column started in April 2002 and continued almost weekly until December of the same year, with a brief stint in December 2003 to January 2004.

Now that I have returned to Armenia and am beginning once again to live and work here, I decided that rather than confine my perceptions to a weekly column with a limited, albeit wide readership throughout the Armenian-American community, I thought it best to start an “online column,” with the hopes that it would be absorbed by an international audience.

I intend to continue in the same vein of the newspaper column in relaying my views on timely subjects affecting work, cultural, and social changes affecting Armenians, both positive as well as negative. From time to time, I may revive past columns when they may be of relevance to a particular, current situation occurring in Armenia.

I encourage you to visit the blog weekly to read new entries as posted. Comments are strongly encouraged, so please feel free to note anything you wish, including your own experiences regarding posted subjects. Note that comments will be shown on the page, so be warned as to what you write. Also, please send a link to this blog to those who you may think will enjoy it.

Again, thank you for visiting the site. I look forward to your feedback, and I hope you enjoy my views regarding life in the homeland – in the "hairenik."

--CG, November 2004

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Posted by Christian Garbis at 4:37 PM.
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