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Notes From Hairenik
September 29, 2006
Dusty Yerevan

There is a Soviet-era popular hit that’s still played on the radio from time to time called “Clean Yerevan.” I hate this song, not only for it’s corny melody but because it is entirely hypocritical and far-removed from today’s reality. Not only is there litter seemingly discarded in every corner and crevice, there is dust flying everywhere, but mostly downtown.

I recommend to anyone reading this blog who is visiting Armenia during the autumn months, or even anyone living here, to get out of Yerevan as often as possible. To the latter I recommend once a week at a minimum. To tourists, leave the city every day if you can. Escaping the dust can be a treacherous task as it usually entails trying not to trip over wooden studs or rusty pieces of iron lying along sidewalks near construction sites. Not to mention dodging pedestrians strolling slower than snails slide or people who unexpectedly come to a complete stop walking just a few steps in front of you. The dust clouds are fairly obvious during the day, which is a plus, as you can sometimes manage to run from them seconds before their particles piece your eyeballs. But during the evening—the most pleasant time to walk around the city’s center—be prepared to be slapped in the face by sand. Try not to walk around with your mouth open or while eating an ice cream, as you’ll most likely get a mouthful of dried mud. Avoid walking along Tumanyan Street nearby the Northern Boulevard if you can.

Quite simply, you need to inhale as much fresh air as possible by getting away as frequently as manageable. At the very least, try visiting Victory Park located just across the very top of the Cascade.

The dust particles in Yerevan as I have mentioned before are very fine, thus they are indeed very difficult to see. Combined with the exhaust from diesel trucks and Russian cars sans catalytic converters, the air quality is fair to poor, depending on the time of day and where you are. Trees that naturally filter dirt are harder to find with every passing month, but try to hang out in the parks surrounding cafés like the infamous Poplovok, for instance.

Since the neighborhood behind my apartment building is now totally destroyed, all that is left is a gigantic gaping hole, as soil as well as clay or sand are excavated by truckloads each day. As a result, all the loose particles of dust and dirt are whisked away each time a gust of wind blows through the city from Mt. Aragast. They usually promptly land on my rear balcony, thus it’s now pointless to hang laundry out to dry there, since after five minutes the clothing items are ready for the washing machine again. Leaving windows open is also becoming a useless way of inviting fresh air into the house, since the dust and even exhaust enters as well. Dust is kicked up from various construction sites throughout the city, as neighborhoods and buildings are smashed into oblivion leaving empty plots instead, and in some cases it takes months before new construction actually begins in such places. Thus filthy powder is continually circulating, with no end in sight. Not for the next five years at a minimum.

However, the opposition in the National Assembly just recently managed to block a bill that would give power to the government to effectively tear down buildings as it sees fit without giving explanations. This will put a cap on the amount of dust flying about, at least temporarily. Hopefully in the process more unfortunate people will avoid being thrown into the dustbowls that would otherwise occupy the areas of their former homes.

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September 22, 2006
Dram keeps inflating, prices are stagnant

I have noticed in my travels during the last 36 hours or so after returning to Yerevan that prices for goods have not really increased. They have remained constant since over two months ago, when the dollar bought about 420 dram, more or less, depending on the day of the week. Now the dollar-dram exchange rate is 380. That’s a considerable inflation in such a short amount of time. As the laws of economics dictate, prices should fall when the economy is essentially on the rise and the monetary value is stronger than ever. But that’s not the case here.

To make my point, a minibus ride costs 100 dram, which was previously equivalent to around 23 cents. Now it costs just about $0.26. This holds true for almost everything. A kilo of lavash bread selling for 400 dram cost about a buck, give or take a few cents. Now it fetches at least $1.05, although the price is technically the same.

Okay, a few cents here and a nickel there does not seem to be much. But when you are dependent on $100 a month in remittances, the pennies add up very quickly. You now have 38,000 dram to live on rather than 42,000 a couple of months ago. When prices effectively stay the same for essentials like foodstuffs, you are hit pretty hard.

The boys running the Central Bank of Yerevan do not seem to understand this. They continue to inflate the dram despite the fact that ordinary Armenian citizens are hurting, and despite threats from big businessmen to close their production facilities and move them to Russia or Georgia, as the head of Grand Tobacco did a few months back. Once again, the government is dependent on short-term solutions by boosting the economy artificially and impressing the Council of Europe as well as the World Bank. But why those two organizations fail to grasp what is really going on is beyond me—perhaps they just don’t care.

When the money dries up for buying real estate when all the new apartments are sold or potential customers lose interest in investing, and spending begins to slow down considerably, what will the government and the people do then? It’s difficult to fathom. We can only hope that along with the continued appreciation—there doesn’t seem to be a cessation in sight—pensions will increase considerably to meet the demands of inflation. But given the way things are progressing, with the government’s lackadaisical stance regarding the plight of the poor and underprivileged in this country, we shouldn’t expect much. And until the public starts demanding better representation and policy making, change won’t come anytime soon. Let’s hope a new administration will make a difference, assuming the people will be able to fairly elect the presidential candidate they prefer.

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Oskanian for President?

Last night I read an interesting article appearing on ArmeniaLiberty.org suggesting that Armenian Foreign Minister Vartan Oskanian may run for president, and will win the backing from President Robert Kocharian. I also heard a rumor about this, but I shrugged it off as being a what-if scenario, nothing to take seriously. But this report suggests otherwise. It read:

Foreign Minister Vartan Oskanian has again pointedly declined to rule out his participation in Armenia’s next presidential election due in 2008.

“At the moment I am concentrating on my work,” he said in an interview published in the September edition of the French-Armenian magazine “Nouvelles d’Armenie.” “I know that I still have things to do in this country, and I would like to continue my work.”

***

Oskanian made similar comments in July, responding to reports that he is harboring presidential ambitions and may therefore become actively involved in Armenian politics. The Armenian press has since been awash with rumors that he is now President Robert Kocharian’s preferred successor and might be backed by the Prosperous Armenia party of pro-Kocharian tycoon Gagik Tsarukian for that purpose.

Oskanian’s passionate speech at a recent conference of the Armenian Revolutionary Federation (Dashnaktsutyun) sparked speculation that he is courting the pro-Kocharian nationalist party to back his possible presidential bid. Lragir.am, an online news service, claimed that Dashnaktsutyun is not averse to doing that.

This is very interesting. If the ARF-Dashnaktsutyun agrees to back Oskanian, who is a fellow Armenian diasporan, the foreign minister will also drastically gain the support of the international Armenian community, as the ARF still has a considerable amount of influence in virtually all colonies around the globe. Never mind the fact that Oskanian is fairly respected in the diaspora anyway. Although the ARF has discussed the possibility of introducing its own candidate in the 2008 presidential elections, this notion is a bit far-fetched, since the political party has lost touch with the people, although it refuses to understand this. It’s slogan last year to apparently win public support was “We’re 115 years old.” I doubt very many people cared about that, and people I have spoken with are generally disappointed in the ARF, especially with its position in the pro-Kocharian coalition, including myself.

But the ARF is not unique in the fact that for the most party political parties whose members hold governmental positions do not look after or reach out to their constituents. They instead tend to their own ambitions and business interests—this is clearly a fact when you study the news from the last six years especially and realize that most if not all Armenian politicians have lucrative businesses on the side. The people’s interests should be met first—this is a golden rule in any democracy, but that is not yet the case in Armenia.

However, Oskanian running for president may not necessarily be good news given the fact that potential backing party Prosperous Armenia is comprised of a bunch of wealthy thugs or arguably well-to-do pseudo-intellectuals. It will mean that Oskanian once elected will be pressured to give preferential treatment and support to private interests as Kocharian has been doing already, rather than put the general public’s concerns first and foremost. In other words, things may remain status quo.

But then again, you never know with Armenian politics. Things change rather quickly—party views, party representation in government, side-switching, and so forth. I for one am still waiting for yet another fellow diasporan, Raffi Hovannisian, to start make a lot of noise and shake things up in this country instead of crying about being locked out of his party offices and thus the nation being essentially undemocratic. We know that, but what he’s going to try to do to foster real democracy—that is, what the international community generally perceives as being democracy—remains to be seen. Interesting times in Armenia. Lots of things up in the air. Let’s be patient to see what pans out.

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September 21, 2006
15 years of a free and independent Armenia
Today is September 21, 2006, the 15th anniversary of Armenia’s independence. I was fortunate enough to be back in time after my two-month hiatus from the homeland to take part in the morning festivities, being present for a jubilant parade that took place in Republic Square. A few thousand troops were there, marching about in order although some of the guys were stumbling a bit when they walked. But the troops were divided up into special categories—first there were a few groups of what seemed to be captains or lieutenants, then the ordinary foot soldiers. Next to stomp about were the beret-wearing guys—the blues, greens, and the reds, the later being the National Security Guard. Then the MIG fighter planes flew over the crowd—I counted a total of 16 flying in separate formations. There were also about 13 attack helicopters in the air. On the ground all sorts of military equipment were shown off, including about a dozen mini tanks, vehicles holding what seemed to be groups of paratroopers, a couple-dozen rocket launchers, about 16 missile launchers, and other exciting, damage-inducing artillery pulled along by Ural military trucks. Whatever was displayed—both the troops and equipment—was just a tip of the iceberg naturally, but it was still fabulous to see. But while trying to stay focused on what was going on before me I was constantly distracted by kids repeatedly trying to climb the tree under which myself and my friend Hamlet were standing for shade, despite a police officer’s constant reminder for them not to do so. Naturally one of the limbs broke to a silent response of "vochinch," although the cop seemed to be pretty pissed.

In any case, it was an impressive display of patriotism, with tens of thousands of people in attendance. The parade only lasted for an hour for some reason, and I thought there was going to be more celebrating with musical performances or whatever, but I suppose there will be more to come this evening.

Happy Independence Day! Long Live Armenia!

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Back in Armenia

I just arrived in Armenia on the eve of Independence Day, a fitting time to return I should say. The trip for the most part was pretty smooth—I flew from Los Angeles via Amsterdam. There were no flight delays whatsoever, and I am pleased to report that the new terminal at Zvartnots airport welcomed us. When walking into the place I found a clean, well-lit and well-organized space. Going through the visa check was a snap as there were several officers available for processing the passengers. The employees are more professional than ever for sure. Perhaps the most bizarre thing about arriving is the fact that when you leave the visa checkpoint you are required to walk through a duty-free shop in order to get to the baggage claim carousel. Naturally everything for sale is more expensive than what you would find in the Amsterdam airport gift shops, with the exception of the Armenian vodka and brandy for sale there. You can save quite a bit, around 1,000 dram per bottle, more or less. Leaving the terminal was a madhouse, unfortunately. Complete chaos. It was difficult to steer my luggage cart through the crowd as everyone nearly refused to get out of the way—Armenian standard practice. Old habits die hard. But as an end note to this airport discussion, I do like the original terminal, and wish that it could be renovated. It needs some tender loving care for the most part. The building is in excellent shape, the design is superb, and I do generally think it can be improved to better service passengers. But unfortunately I heard that renovations are not in store for it, and I can only guess that it will eventually be demolished—another fine example of Soviet Armenian engineering ingenuity to be lost forever.

But I am suffering from a sort of culture shock and don’t expect to get over it for a couple of weeks. I had been living in Orange County, just south of Los Angeles, for two months, where the streets are lined with 100-foot tall palm trees, are well lit, and are extremely clean, there is plenty of fresh air along with neatly trimmed, perfectly grown green lawns, and so forth. Not to mention neat shopping plazas offering anything you could possibly want to consume seemingly everywhere. I was working and staying in Irvine—the office was virtually across the street from the hotel that served as my place of lodging. I might as well add here that the hotel, called the Homestead Studio Suites, was a dirty, mice-ridden complex. I changed rooms about four times during my two-month stay. Six days after checking in my room became infested with cockroaches. The grounds and even access ways to the rooms on the upper floor of the two-level structures comprising the hotel were always dusty, a la Yerevan. The bathrooms usually have fungus growing on the grout between the tiles and along the tub basin, thus there is always a mildewy smell in the air. I am glad to be out of there.

In any case, Yerevan is a totally different animal. Here I have to deal with endless circulating dust that is virtually invisible until it piles up a couple of millimeters high on the furniture and floors in only a few days. It settles evenly on everything I discovered so long ago. And at times it can be brutal on the respiratory system. There are other things to have to be contended with, such as people walking around or driving without noticing what’s happening in their immediate vicinity. Going from store to store to find a loaf of bread the other didn’t have or whatever else is also a pain. Then there is the unavoidable displeasure in overhearing people on the street arguing about any trivial topic imaginable at the top of their lungs. Littering is common practice, with trash deposited in any crevice that can be found. Do I need to mention having to mingle with people in public gatherings who do not fathom the necessity to bathe frequently?

Luckily I was dealing with people from the Yerevan office constantly on my business trip, so I was not totally out of the loop for two months regarding customs and habits that I am not particularly fond of. But the people I was with do not have the typical “vochinch” mentality I have so often discussed on this blog. So I will be obliged once again to confront phrases I do not rather appreciate, like “It doesn’t matter,” “What can I/we do about it,” “I didn’t do it,” and, my favorite, “How?”

On a sad note the hamlet behind my apartment building near Republic Square, which was virtually hidden from sight until about 10 months ago, has been completely destroyed. Nothing is left of it—just a small iron cross suspended on an aluminum pole on the site of the last home to be raised only three weeks ago belonging to Ophelia, the “Godmother” of the former neighborhood, as a testament to what was there. Her home was a historic structure, dating as far back as the late 19th century. Apparently each of the people registered as being occupants of her home were awarded $35,000 by the developer of the future high-rise apartment building to eventually go up—a bit hard to accept as being true—and her son has been promised a new apartment as documented in a signed agreement. Most of the citizens of that neighborhood left virtually overnight more than eight months ago, and the monetary amounts they received to do so were never discussed, so it is indeed likely that everyone was well taken care of there, but by the developer.

The idiot living on the fifth floor of my apartment building who has been working on renovating his home by essentially constructing a penthouse chiefly made from cement, judging from the amount of sand and cinder blocks that were hoisted up, has decided after much speculation on my part to build his own personal elevator so that his fat-ass wife won’t have to climb the stairs any longer. A metal frame, which looks shoddily erected not surprisingly, is already in place in the corner of the entrance way, which actually was moved a bit to the left to make room. The frame is already partially blocking the windows that provide natural sunlight to the stairwell, which by the way is completely caked with dust. Although most if not all of the construction the idiot is financing is illegal, since he has close ties to the Prosecutor General he can virtually do whatever he wants, as residents are too scared to try and stop him for fear of being harassed or beaten up. And until people do start speaking up in this city, such madness will continue.

So far I can say it is good to be amongst friends and family again, but I will have to be candid in that I cannot say I am necessarily relieved to be here. I think in a couple of days I will feel much better about that, especially after my wife arrives on Saturday from her visit with my parents in Boston. But when I started up the Niva this morning and realized that I was virtually out of gasoline as the car just stopped working only after five minutes while parked, it wasn’t a good feeling to know that someone essentially siphoned fuel from my tank. It’s not the first time that’s happened, either. I suppose it’s my fault for not screwing on a locking gas tank cap, but that’s one thing I never had to be concerned about when living in the US. It could have been worse—my car could have been stolen or vandalized. Anyway, I will have more to report about what’s happening in the good ol’ fatherland in the days to come.

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September 19, 2006
Save Freenet


Freenet.am, the ISP providing free Internet access to thousands of users throughout Armenia, will finally be shutting down by the end of the month unless it receives immediate funding to carry on its services. This program was initially funded by a grant from the UNDP in 1997. Although the UN decided to cut off funding to the program at the beginning of the year, it allowed its servers to remain operating in a small closet space on the top floor of its Yerevan operations building, until now.

Unless someone steps in to save Freenet from permanently shutting down, a valuable resource catering to over 20,000 registered users across Armenia will simple come to a complete stop. Freenet is an important program. Tens of thousands of dollars have gone into providing free Internet access to anyone with a phone connection and a modem anywhere in Armenia over the last nine years. Additionally, registered users can open free email accounts and even launch their own Web sites. The cessation of this much-needed and in-demand service would be a devastating blow to communicational and technological advancement in Armenia. The fact that Freenet will most likely shut down effectively for good is a real shame.

It is extremely important that something be done to indefinitely perpetuate Freenet’s existence. Funding could come from the private sector given that most if not all potential philanthropic resources are not expressing interest, according to Freenet’s administrators. Or they can come from individual donors. The costs for maintaining Freenet are minimal. Basically there are about four main expenses to run Freenet: utility costs--namely electricity--office rent, broadband connection rent, and the administrator’s salary (part-time). Server maintenance may also be a factor, but for the most part all hardware as well as software is continually kept up-to-date by a highly experienced, meticulous systems administrator (who I personally know). Hopefully, someone will show interest in Freenet’s survival very soon.

For more information, write to Freenet-Daemon@freenet.am. Arthur Harutunyan is the main contact at Freenet.am.

September 6, 2006
Montage from a Distance: The Films of Artavasd Peleshian

While I am still away from Armenia I thought I would reprint some articles that I have written over the last few years. Below is an article that originally appeared in the Armenian Weekly, in May 2004. It is basically a review of several short films screened in the Boston area, directed by obscure filmmaker Artavasd Peleshian, a Soviet-era pioneer in abstract cinema. I found his films to be utterly fascinating, and they have had a huge impact on me. Unfortunately, they are very difficult to get a hold of and thus cannot be readily seen. We can only hope that a renewed interest in Peleshian’s work will reverse this trend.

* * *

The films of Artavasd Peleshian are not well known to Armenians or to world cinema as they are relatively inaccessible. All but two of his films were produced during the Soviet Union era. Most of his films are short in length, the shortest being 6 minutes long, with one film, ‘Our Century,’ about the Soviet space program lasting 60 minutes. His works for the most part are obscure and border on insanity, yet visually they are spectacular. From seeing these films, shown on April 15 as part of the Balagan film series in Brookline, MA, it is obvious that he is among the great avant garde world filmmakers due to his innovation and unique craft.

Mr. Peleshian developed a unique style of cinematographic perspective known as “distance montage,” combining perception of depth with oncoming entities, whether in the form of running packs of antelope or hordes of humans escaping from or scattering towards an irrevocable doom. Mr. Peleshian used both archive documentary footage from the national film vaults in Moscow and his own footage shot on location, intercutting them seamlessly, with the viewer totally unaware of the transitions. Moreover, the effect of distance montage is also captured through the clever use of the telephoto lens, as the camera acts as a spy device intruding on mundane tasks that people engage in--hugging, sobbing, screaming, riding a tram, picking noses, nodding to sleep. Some scenarios are intentionally arranged, yet are conveyed in a documentary style. His films feature no dialogue, the interweaving images set against music, sound effects, or both simultaneously. Music styles focus on classical with dabs in popular or traditional. Nearly all of his films were shot in black and white.

Of the 12 films that are known to exist, six were screened throughout the evening. The first, “The Beginning,” from 1967 is his third film, displaying crowds of people running towards and away from bombastic deities scorning their devoted followers. Here the archival footage is intermingled with modern images of war and labor. Mr. Peleshian uses a unique editing device here, as snippets of film are held momentarily on one frame, then advance only for a second or two until again pausing on another, resulting in a stuttering visual effect of sorts.

“We” from 1969 was perhaps the most stunning and nostalgic of the films shown, opening with a held shot of a young girl with a wild mane of hair and a beaded necklace, followed by scenes of Mount Aragast and the rocky terrain of Armenia’s Ararat region. This film displays the labors and emotional turbulence of mankind, with close-up scenes of men pulling up boulders from the ground or struggling to erect a stone monument on a hillside with panoramic view of Yerevan (assumingly the victory monument atop the ‘Cascade’ steps). Virtually the entire film is shot in Armenia, primarily in Yerevan. Most scenes are filmed in documentary style with crowds of people flooding the streets, in particular Mesrob Mashdots Avenue and Republic Square. This film artistically portrays the culture of Armenia through the medium of personal emotion—the viewer feels like an intruder when watching people lamenting during a funeral procession, during which tens of thousands flood Republic Square. Another scene shows masses congregated on the tarmac in front of a parked jetliner, again with emotional people hugging and sobbing, yet the viewer cannot place the scenes in context with the incident—the events portrayed are not interpretable, due to the total absence of dialogue or a narrative plot.

“The Armenians are simply an opportunity that allow me to talk about the world, about human characteristics, human nature,” the director has admitted regarding his work.

“Inhabitant” from 1970 is a film nearly entirely composed of scenes of animals huddled together, hurrying to destinations unknown and from situations unrevealed. Most of these scenes were filmed by Peleshian and his film crew on location. The film opens with a close up of a swan unfolding its wings, its body filling the frame, totally vulnerable to those gazing upon it. In subsequent scenes animals are in constant flux, whether galloping in packs of hundreds or solo, swinging from vines. The segments of animalography are intercut with shots of people in precarious positions, as the role of man oppressing beast is reversed, with the beast dominating the world. Again distance montage is put brilliantly to use here, the camera’s angle remaining static yet tracking the tide of the flocks. Movement is the sole emotional device, complemented by the score of music and indeterminable animal sounds.

“Seasons” also takes place in Armenia, and visualizes the close bonds between beast and man. The film begins with a man struggling in the rapids of a raging river, straining to unsuccessfully grasp hold of a lamb floating along just ahead of him. The force of the river’s streams suppresses them ever from uniting, with the man repeatedly failing to clench the leg of the lamb. In later scenes, these rescue attempts of lambs are further examined, with little comprehension on the viewer’s part, as men clenching the animals slide down great hillsides, covered with grass, snow, or crumbling clay. Scenes of village life are intermingled, with men reaping high grasses, then collecting them in stacks to slide them down the steep slopes, pulling them along with ropes tied around them. The men seem jubilant running with the hay stacks, occasionally tripping over loose stones, their tasks accompanied by movements from Vivaldi’s “Four Seasons.” Then Mr. Peleshian abruptly turns to a melancholy wedding procession, again in distance montage mode, closing in on the bride and groom during their unification, only to learn that the groom was the man struggling with the lamb in the rapids.

“It’s not specifically the seasons of the year or of people: it is everything,” Mr. Peleshian has explained. “One should not forget that this film’s ‘heroes’ are not the people, but the seasons and nature. It is not man who imposed himself upon nature, but rather nature that imposes itself upon man.”

In 1993 Mr. Peleshian made the film “Life,” this time in color, which he describes as the celebration of life. Shot in real time during a six-minute time span, a woman lies on a platform – whether a bed or stretcher is unclear – slightly perspiring and moving her head from side to side, and it eventually becomes apparent that the woman is in labor. The camera in telephoto zoom moves ever so slightly by the woman’s head, as if caressing her in comfort. Her face winces and her mouth gapes, occasionally smiling, perhaps in anticipation. Rather than portraying a woman birthing in full vulnerability, as is often done on evening television hospital soaps, the director concentrates on the emotional impact, on the mother to be as a woman rather than patient. The thump of a continuous heartbeat persists throughout the film, coupled with an aria performed by a tenor-soprano duet. The film perfectly articulates the director’s brilliant command of sound and vision, as he is able to accurately command the desired emotional effect to be interpreted by the viewer. This was also true for ‘The Beginning’ in particular.

The last film Mr. Peleshian completed was called, ironically enough, “The End” produced in 1994. The spy camera is well put to use here, with the film again photographed nearly exclusively in zoomed close-up. The film takes place on a moving train, with exchanging shots of people being filmed unbeknownst to them--Mr. Peleshian having become a master of the craft by this time, showing views of scenery from the perspective of the passenger. The departure and destination of the train are unknown, as the director--as with all the other viewed films--is only concerned with the present, and the situations that arise from moment to moment.

Another visual device the director uses when shooting is one whereby the camera remains fixed on a single point in distance, while unrecognizable objects from afar slowly approach the camera in real time, finally distorting as they advance into oblivion. The film’s last moments are captured using this technique, the camera fixated on a small orb of white light surrounded by total darkness, accompanied by the constant drone of unrecognizable machinery sounds. The light gradually widens in diameter, and soon it becomes apparent that the camera is fixated on the proverbial light at the end of the tunnel. As the train finally meets the wall of white, the viewer is cast into the expected obscurity of light, the light of Mr. Peleshian’s filmmaking legacy.

The director, whose efforts were never properly recognized by world cinema and, until recently, Armenian cinema—with the exception of French New Wave cinema pioneer Jean Luc-Godard—has retired from filmmaking, suffering cruelly from mental illness. Mr. Godard had offered to finance a subsequent film but Mr. Peleshian declined, on the grounds that signing a contract was a foreign concept to him. Mr. Peleshian now lives in Moscow, with the false conviction that his films have been forgotten.


Copyright © 2004 Christian Garbis

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