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However, readers are probably asking themselves what happened to my poor old Niva. Well, as I was turning left (and also signaling) a mediocre 15-20 year old Mercedes-Benz, one of the smaller types, decided to pass me at a high speed and in the process nicked the corner of my car’s front bumper. The bumper, which is affixed to the body by two weighty metal posts, was torn away on the left side where it was hit, while the right side managed to hang on. The Mercedes-Benz however, was in much worse shape. The front and rear passenger doors were significantly damaged, and on top of that it looked as though the front end was severely out of alignment. Older men in their 50s or 60s who bothered to stop and observe what would transpire as a result of the accident were overheard lamenting the fact that the Mercedes-Benz was smashed up, never mind my car or more importantly the people who were sitting in each vehicle.
As you can see in the above photo of a nearly identical Niva to my own parked on a beautiful beach with a glamorous woman striking a pose by leaning against it with her right arm, perhaps caressing it admiringly, the corner of the bumper—the black plastic part—needs to be replaced. The steel bumper itself appears to be in fine condition, so I am assuming there is minimal work to be done there. The black grill, which of course is also made from plastic, needs to be replaced, and the lower front needs to be stretched back into its rightful shape somehow, as was told to me. There are some other small dents that formed in the collision which will also be banged out. If I was driving a newer model (mine was built in 1995) the damage could have been worse since they are generally not built as solidly according to what I have heard and even noticed. Hopefully I will have my car back looking as if nothing had ever happened to it in about a week.
Now you may be wondering, why was the driver of the Mercedes-Benz going so fast, and why was he passing you while you were about to make a left turn (that happened to me for the first time a few weeks ago)? Well for one thing, very few people actually learn how to drive here. You see student driver cars around the city now but they are few and far between compared with the amount of vehicles that are on the road and are ever increasing. Most people simply do not know the rules of the road or even care about them judging by the way they drive. My apartment is situated on an intersection that has a traffic light, but there isn’t a minute or two that goes by when I see someone go through a red light or pull half-way into the intersection while waiting 15 seconds for the light to turn green. There are also lots of close calls, especially in the way people pass each other, so my situation was no exception. It is generally amazing that accidents are hard to come across given the reckless nature of most drivers, especially the young punks driving their own Nivas or other Lada models. There should be more traffic police pulling people over on the roads—I observed one such situation last week from my balcony where the cop was giving the driver a hard time about some violation, and it appeared that he wrote the guy a ticket. But you don’t see that as often as is needed in Yerevan especially. I imagine that the pulling over of vehicles by police infrequently happens outside the capital. There is one other thing to consider: Armenians are showoffs. They love to cruise around in their cars, each of them thinking that they are driving the best machines to master the streets, even though many of them are jalopies that barely roll along powered by natural gas. The cocky drivers are the ones who drive enormous black Japanese sport utility vehicles or relatively new German sedans—they think they own the roads and all other drivers are subservient to their hapless moves. They could care less about other motorists or pedestrians for that matter.
Labels: Personal Experiences, Social and Cultural
Last week a friend of mine and I planned to jump into my Niva and journey towards Tbilisi, Georgia. Both of us had never been and I especially wanted to check the city out since effectively it is one of the oldest if not the oldest city in the South Caucasus and has fantastic architecture, not to mention scenery. It was also the intellectual center of the Armenians in the 1800s into the early 1900s, so I wanted to get a first-hand glimpse of old Tiflis as the city is called in Armenian. I made a road trip to Samtskhe-Javakheti or Javakhk several years ago and admired the beautiful landscape, so I wanted to travel Georgia again but this time drive in my own car.
By the time we woke, took showers, had a bite to eat, filled up gasoline, and made sure we had our passports with us, we didn’t hit the road towards Lori until 9:00 am. It took us about two and a half hours to reach the border by way of Alaverdi, which is about 20 miles or so from the Georgian border. When we finally got there about five or six cars were parked in front of us waiting to take care of the administrative problems associated with crossing a state border, and Hamlet and I also found out what we had to do. There were two windows we thought we had to approach. At one window we showed our Armenian special residency visas and American passports to a customs officer, then were told that everything was fine but we should see the officer directly across from him. The officers worked in small rooms that are situated right at the gate to cross the border. The other officer studied the passports and while doing so had trouble pronouncing my last name (which is Adanalian), then made a flippant remark about what kind of name it was. Naturally I reassured him that was Armenian, even though I suppose he was suspicious for some stupid reason. He reaffirmed that they were in order, and then he asked for the paperwork for the car.
I gave him the official registration/title of the car, which looks like a credit card, followed by the transfer of ownership which was typed in Armenian. He glanced over it, turning it over a couple of times, then asked, “What is this?” I told him but he protested. “This isn’t stamped with a seal. Why are you showing this to me? This is basically useless and besides, you don’t have a sealed Russian or English translation. Go back, you can’t cross with your car.”
In Armenia the legitimacy of all services received and capital purchased must be validated with an official seal stamped on a typed document describing the transaction made. The seal is used by government agencies and businesses considered in good standing. Agencies providing legal services also use the seal. A seal has to be round and have an exact official diameter for it to be legal. Within the seal in a narrow space between the outer edge and an inner ring the name of the institution must appear in Armenian as well as in Russian or English. The seal is also usually signed by the person who stamped it. If a document is not sealed, which is most always affixed in blue ink, the legality associated with the transaction is questionable or otherwise considered not binding.
We could have crossed on foot but then there would be the problem of transportation. Supposedly there are taxis on the other side of the border but we figured the ride would be fairly expensive to Tbilisi. But the fun of the journey was to go with my car so we could stop and site watch whenever we wanted without worrying about the meter ticking.
So we drove to Alaverdi to find a notary office. It was located in the courthouse but there was a padlock on the iron gate protecting the main entrance. A few guys were standing on the corner waiting for something to happen, and one of them told us that he could help by taking us to the notary, who happened to live in a neighborhood that happened to be perched on a cliff about a half-mile north of where we were parked. We jumped into the Niva to make the 10-minute journey upwards along the winding snake-like road. Four false starts later, we found the high-rise apartment where the notary lived and walked up to the second floor. The man helping us was determined to find the guy at all costs. We knocked on the notary’s door but no one was home. The neighbors across the hall didn’t know him or where he was. But the next-door resident confirmed he was away, yet he she didn’t have his mobile or home phone numbers. The search was officially over, and our search guide was visibly disappointed, but we thanked him happily. We were actually cheered up that he went all out to assist us, as it is always pleasant to experience the resilience of someone who chooses to help solve your problem in this country—it becomes their dilemma in the process and they want it resolved.
We decided to make a fruitless trip to Vanadzor to go to the office of the original notary who issued the transfer of ownership in the first place when I purchased the car and chew her out while she translated and stamped for not telling me what needed to be done. But there were about 20 people in line there to get things in order. I knew of another notary who worked in a trailer and did express work by cutting corners but charging more money, nevertheless it turned out she replaced the notary who issued my transfer of ownership and worked in the office at city hall, as her trailer office was gone.
Instead we headed to Dilijan and had a barbeque lunch complete with all the fixings along the river there, then went to visit Goshavank build in the 12th century. The church is being renovated in phases it seems, but they still have to get around to cleaning all the bird droppings that completely cover nearly all the interior walls. Apparently the ancient structure has become a giant bird house over the years, as the church is currently not working as an official place of worship.
Incidentally, the next day we decided to drive south towards Yeghiknadzor but along the way decided to head straight towards Datev located in Syunik instead. The winding road from the main highway was treacherous as much of it is severely eroding, but the one-hour ride to the top of the mountain where the monastery is situated was worth it. By far the religious complex was the most fascinating that I have seen in Armenia. It was surrounded by a type of fortress wall complete with a watch tower in the shape of a church steeple along the north and east sides which served as a perch for the armaments. Apparently the complex was financed by the district governor or nakharar at the time who ensured its protection. We found dozens of dormitory rooms, meeting halls, and what seemed to be rooms for meditation with fabulous views of the surrounding landscape. We also found the shed where wheat and other grains were ground by a gigantic stone wheel and where bread was baked. Anyone living or visiting Armenia who has never been to Datev must make the journey there at some point during their lives. It is an inspirational, moving place at which to spend time. The entire time there the two of us were in surprise and awe.
Then we drove down to Kapan, the administrative capital of Syunik, in the dark with lightning storms over our heads to light another snake-like uphill road for split seconds at a time, braving to pass delivery trucks en route to Iran along the way. We spent the night at the Darist Hotel of course after having a midnight barbeque meal and home-distilled mulberry vodka. It was all in all a great weekend south of Yerevan. I actually prefer the south because it is more picturesque over all and the people there, especially in Syunik where General Karekin Njdeh fought bravely against the Red Army for months even after Yerevan surrendered in 1921, are proud and self-reliant. They don’t generally make excuses and cry for assistance from the government in order to make things happen in their communities—this is obvious to you when you enter towns and villages. The architecture in Goris is unique standing apart from that in other parts of the country. Buildings there are comparably very much more structurally sound than most I have seen anywhere else, presumably because engineers or foremen did not steal building materials to sell them on the side when they were being erected 20 or more years ago. You can see the pride on the people’s faces and in their attitudes. That is, unless they are from Yerevan—I saw lots of Yerevan license plates on vehicles for some reason there.
Anyway, I finally learned my lesson after all this time living here. Very few can do anything if their papers are not stamped with approval. Apparently very few things in this country rival the power of the seal, which in my experience was ultimate.
Labels: Personal Experiences, Politics, Social and Cultural
Apparently the Armenian government is approving a measure to actually start collecting taxes that authorities have previously “overlooked.” Wealthy big businessmen have traditionally received tax breaks, both legitimized and conspicuous, and on the whole people that own properties, material goods, or firms have been able to successfully get away with tax evasion. As a result social service programs are under funded and pensioners make between $12 and $20 a month.
According to the State Tax Service (STS), if the program is implemented (i.e., if businessmen start paying taxes and tax collection officials stop taking bribes), the amount of revenue generated from collected taxes will rise to 20 percent in 2010. I don’t know if that number takes into consideration the rise in the state budget, nevertheless the number is still way too low. I do not understand how the spending budget is determined in this country when tax collection is relatively weak. The Armenian method of economics still remains a disturbing mystery.
Many companies basically avoid paying taxes by playing with the accounting figures and posting losses. As an example, despite the construction spree in Yerevan Gagik Tsarukian’s MultiGroup cement factory (assuming that’s what it’s called since many of his businesses have “Multi” in the name) in the town of Ararat has been claiming that it has been in the red for years. Looks like the boys at the STS have been doing very well to shut up about it. Yet supposedly that’s all about to change according to this measure. Somehow I doubt it, but then again, you never know. So far this year both the STS and customs have supposedly collected approximately $254 million in revenue.
Labels: Politics

Labels: Fashion, Personal Experiences, Social and Cultural

Labels: Politics
Labels: Politics
Labels: Politics
Labels: Politics
Labels: Politics

Labels: Nagorno-Karabagh
Yesterday at 7:00 pm I attended a political rally staged by Prosperous Armenia in front of the Opera House, the leader of which is multimillionaire oligarch Gagik Tsarukian, who is otherwise infamously known as Dodi Gago. However, apparently because of his rise in stature as a politician he is known as Mr. Tsarukian in his fiefdom, the town of
Unfortunately the sound system was not set up properly so that people who stood on the sides of the huge concert stage that was erected could not hear anything that was being said. However, I can guess that Mr. Tsarukian (I won’t refer to him by his somewhat demeaning nickname), who was clad in a khaki leisure suit, was basically saying the same thing that he has been up until now at public gatherings: that once the party has been elected things for the ordinary Armenian would improve, presumably socio-economically, and that all Armenians young and old alike would unite to help build a prosperous country, but how those objectives will be met of course are completely unclear. It was interesting to see one banner hanging on the Opera House wall read, “I want to learn, I elect Prosperous Armenia.” I didn’t understand what that meant until I was told that he personally apparently is paying schooling expenses for select students—I don’t know how they are chosen to receive financial aid. So a good portion of the youth is on his side.
Indeed more than half of the crowd at the event was youth, and the other portion seemed to have been middle aged men or elderly pensioners. But there were also people simply roaming around eating popcorn, sunflower seeds, and cotton candy, presumably waiting for the show to start. The overwhelming majority of those several thousand present were male, and most of young men under the age of 25 were evidently “aperos,” in other words those who adhere to the rabiz culture and lifestyle. I will write more about the apero movement in a separate post, but in the meantime, read my article here.
Prosperous
Now there seems to be a battle for the majority of seats mainly between Prosperous Armenia and the Republican Party. I have heard many times the statement that “everything has already been arranged” regarding the allocation of seats, in other words the elections are just a show and will most like be falsified to some degree. If anything the two parties will form a new pro-government coalition, either before election day or soon after, and the ARF-Dashnaktsutiun will have no choice but to join as a junior partner if it wants to hold on to its power, especially if it is serious about meeting its pledges to voters, not to mention the need for its members to continue operating lucrative businesses. Thus three of the wealthiest people in
Onnik Krikorian will most likely print photos and text here.
Labels: Politics
Labels: Politics
The temperature seems to be warming up now hovering at around 70 degrees Fahrenheit/21 degrees Celsius. Now that the spring rains are hopefully dying down, the latest storm having arrived last night, the cafés are all opening up in confidence, many of them swishier than ever. Every year despite the fact that during the month of April it for the most part rains constantly, there is fear that the apricots will be washed out. A few years back the crop was affected by an unusual amount of rain coupled with untimely freezing temperatures in some areas, effectively driving up the price of apricots by three times or more. I haven’t heard much concern so far, however, which means that people are not worried about it or no longer care one way or another. Spring brings heightened apathy it seems.
The political climate is pretty boring, even as we approach the parliamentary elections to be held on May 12. The Republican Party of Armenia is being very arrogant in its confidence that it will by far win the majority of seats. Prosperous
I have been trying to gear up for the elections hoping to participate as a monitor representing It’s Your Choice (www.iyc.am), as they were recruiting Diasporan Armenians especially for the task. However, despite having written to them several times and calling a line that no one seems to answer, I essentially gave up hopes of becoming one, especially when I went to an informational meeting that was cancelled at the last minute—an cancellation notification email wasn’t sent out and there wasn’t even a sign posted on the IYC office door alluding to the fact, which I found to be very odd. But I heard through the grapevine that all the monitor candidates had already been pre-selected amongst the Diasporan Armenian clique that lurks about here. And it seems that Transparency International is actually behind the monitoring program, not IYC, then personal connections also come into play, and so forth. Unfortunately I have never been part of the in-crowd in social circles, so no monitoring opportunities for me unless some kind of diplomatic miracle happens.
Exploring the regions hasn’t been possible in the last couple of weeks due to a mysterious short-circuit draining my Niva’s battery down completely over the course of 5-7 idle days. Since I drive on average about once a week, this situation has caused me some grief, especially on May Day when I was itching to leave the city on a gorgeous afternoon. I have been trying to use this car battery charger/air compressor that I bought over a year ago to give it a boost, but it seems I have to leave it connected for a few hours. Once I get the Niva running I will be off like a dart to an electrician I know who hopefully will diagnose and solve the problem. I met him a year ago when I had another power drain problem that no one could determine the root of except him—it turned out that one of the previous owners had installed an alternator for a Lada Zhiguli 2101, which is essentially a pure Fiat. Nivas use the same parts as the 2106, so there was definitely something screwy.
But so far, an overall dull, rainy spring. Hoping for some excitement soon enough.