As you may already know I’ve been living here for nearly five years and was also here for an eight-month stint back in 2002.  My experiences have shown that residing in Armenia can be a bumpy ride emotionally and psychologically, especially for those who are of Armenian descent.  Armenians like myself come here with romantic, lofty intentions and they--depending on the individual, naturally--may find themselves feeling the angst of disillusion. Below are some points that you may want to take into consideration when you first start your life in Armenia, or even if you’ve been in Armenia for a while.  This is also a helpful refresher guide for myself; I should have written it a long time ago.

1. Make true, lasting friendships with Armenian citizens. There are no substitutes for companionship and trust in others who are close to you.
   
   
2. Don’t be concerned about or get directly involved in Armenian politics. Simply put, if you are not a citizen of Armenia, politics is not your problem.  The more you stay away from and ignore political situations, whether in the news or on the streets in the form of protests for instance, the better.  It’s up to Armenian citizens to be active in politics, not you.
   
   
3. Embrace Armenian logic. If you run into a situation where logic as you know it does not apply, chances are Armenian logic is at play. You cannot defy Armenian logic, there is no escape. Do not even try to understand it because such efforts are futile.  Do not attempt to prove to others that Armenian logic is faulty, as that exercise is a total waste of time. Remove yourself from the situation as delicately as possible and go about your business. And do everything you can to avoid such situations in the future, but if you find yourself having to relive the situation, do not attempt to understand the processes involved in resolving it. Do whatever it takes to come away unscathed emotionally.
   
   
4. Ignore what Armenian citizens have to say about politics.  The political climate of Armenia does not concern you because you are not a citizen and have no voting rights.  Encourage people that they can enact change. If you are told that Armenia “is not a country,” tell that person to build that country and society in which they expect to live.  Encourage, but never, ever discourage.
   
   
5. Forgive people who cut you in line. This phenomenon is a common, generally accepted practice that falls within the realm of Armenian logic.  Let it be known that you are next in line. If the person responds that they will only be a minute, forgive them. Don’t get aggravated, it’s not worth it. Nowadays it’s usually possible to avoid lines, anyway, as there are bill payment machines scattered across the city center.
   
   
6. Do not accept rumor as the gospel. News is spread through word of mouth, but that does not mean that what you hear is not false. Listen, be cognizant of the fact that the information is out there, but don’t believe the hype.
   
   
7. Keep in touch with others who have expatriated or are temporarily visiting Armenia.  They should be part of your support group. Exchange stories and laugh with them about your experiences as well as their own.  It’s probably the best form of mental therapy.   
   
   
8. Do not become emotionally attached to societal problems or issues that are out of your control.  The homeless problem for instance is getting worse.  It’s common now to see people sleeping on sidewalks at night.  Poverty is also out of control particularly in the regions where you may happen to visit.  And judging by the way teenagers are poorly behaving themselves nowadays in public, the high quality of education that Armenians have always taken pride in is in question. Mafia life is ever-present in Armenian society, it is even flaunted on television serial programs. These issues are the products of mismanagement and incompetence in the chain of command at various ministries as well as in law and order enforcement agencies.  The executive branch is undoubtedly the most responsible. Do not let these problems in society disturb you.  They are out of your control because you cannot really change anything in society directly.  It’s up to Armenian citizens to take the necessary steps to resolve societal problems.  Accept things as they are and go about your business.  However, give advice and try to make indirect change where appropriate or deemed necessary if you feel compelled or are responsible, but don’t expect to find long-term, viable solutions.  It’s up to citizens to make those solutions work, not you.  Frustration can easily lead to feelings of hopelessness and depression—don’t fall into despair because the change you intend to instill or expect to see isn’t taking root. It’s not your fault.
   
   
9. Ignore rude people. There are plenty of people out there looking for a fight.  If they start bickering with you or want to argue, no matter how absurd the reason, walk away and do not challenge them. It will only lead to stress and anxiety on your part.  Don’t talk back. You don’t need any emotional scarring or built-up repressed anger while coping in a foreign environment.  Don’t stoop down to their level.
   
   
10. Ignore police presence. Red Berets and beat cops holding batons or Tasers are constantly roaming the vicinity of the Opera House, Place de France, the Northern Boulevard and other areas in the city center. Pay no attention to them. They are meant to intimidate opposition supporters or anyone for that matter. Don’t let their staring, loitering or strolling interfere with your business of getting to your destination on foot.
    
    
11. Do not fall into the trap of thinking you will be tricked or deceived by others, namely by those you don’t know. After hearing horror stories from acquaintances and experiencing situations where you realized you were duped after the fact, you may be tempted to always expect that someone will pull the wool over your eyes. Everyone you are in contact with must be given the benefit of the doubt. One woman, an Armenian citizen, many years ago told me that I was naïve, that I should deceive or be deceived as that was part of Armenian life. That is obviously the wrong mentality to have.
    
    
12. Immerse yourself in Armenian culture and everyday life.  Engage people you are introduced to in conversation and try to see what makes them tick. Learn from them, but don’t talk about politics—if the topic comes up, change the channel.  There are excellent plays to see and concerts to hear on a nightly basis—attend them often. Lose yourself in culture and forge lasting bonds with genuine, unique individuals; you will not be disappointed, rather rewarded with priceless knowledge.
    
    
13. Never be afraid to speak Armenian, regardless of how little you might know. Converse in Armenian in a way that is comfortable for you—whether Eastern, Western or a hybrid of the two, which I proudly speak. It is irrelevant how well you know the language, because most people will be delighted to hear from you (assuming they enjoy making acquaintances). If you can’t phrase what you want to say in a way they can understand, they will help you make your point.  Just as you want to learn from others, they, in kind, will want to learn from you.
    
    
14. Finally, focus on what you have set out to do in Armenia. Obviously your work should be at the top of your list of priorities.  If your work and personal life are in control, it will be easier to forge relationships with others and be part of Armenian life. By all means, stay stress free.
    

Labels: Personal Experiences, Thoughts and Musings

Last Saturday night (May 16) I went to see the new presentation of Aram Khachaturian's famous, endearing Spartacus ballet, which was performed in Spendiaryan Hall at the Opera House to a overpacked audience. About 20 kids were sitting in the aisles close by me. Watching it was an impressive, amazing experience to say the least. The presentation was sponsored in part by several television stations and companies like VivaCell as well as Yerevan Brandy. It was directed by the legendary choreographer Yuri Krikorovich (now 84) and the art direction and costumes were designed by Simon Virsaladze. Spartacus premiered on May 5 with Russian first lady Svetlana Medvedev in attendance, accompanied by President Serge Sarkisian and his wife Rita. 

Labels: Arts and Entertainment

If you’re planning on visiting Armenia in the next few weeks bring along a compact umbrella with you. The months of April and May are seasonally laden with rainfall, and the rain can continue into June as well. For the rest of the year, except for the winter when the snows come, much of Armenia, particularly Yerevan, is rather arid.

Naturally rain should be regarded as a good thing. After all, it’s hydrating the soil to produce crops in the farmlands. In the city it helps to wash away the shroud of micro-dust that permeates every crack and crevice. It never seems to work for very long though since dirty water simply flows down the street as drain pipes are few and far between for whatever reason that is. Most streets seem to be virtually absent of drains. Once the water dries up the dust remains, and with a gust of wind it’s back up into the air and then in everyone’s face before long. And coupled with all the pollen from the trees, walking down the street in a spell of springtime gales can be perilous.

I’ve spoken to people who actually resent the rain, because too much of it will ruin the apricot crop yields. Two years ago when it was raining almost on a daily basis the apricots were virtually washed out. There were so few apricots on the market that you couldn’t find a kilo selling for less than 800 dram (about $2 at that time). The year before that something else happened to the apricots--I think a late freeze destroyed most of them.

As for me… bring on the rain! Rainy days have become my favorite days of the month in dusty Yerevan. I personally can’t get enough of it because I know the time is short. In another month everyone will be begging for rain when people, especially fruit vendors and laborers, bake in the dry heat for weeks on end. I’m guessing the lack of summer rain is a main reason why Lake Sevan is such a popular vacation spot, where you can swim to your heart’s content in the lukewarm waters.  Sounds fabulous right about now.

Photo by Chrisitan Garbis

Labels: Thoughts and Musings

An opinion piece that widely expands upon thoughts in my entry "Details of 'Mutual Understanding' Leaked" was just printed in the Armenian Weekly. Below is an excerpt: 

Labels: Armenian Genocide, Politics

I just returned from the Ulikhanyan Club, which is at the moment arguably the most serious venue to hear jazz in Yerevan. I received word this afternoon that the jazz group Nooz was making another appearance there, the same location where I first heard them about two months ago.

Nooz was formed by trombonist David Minasian, whom I first met and heard in 2002 during my first long-term stay in Armenia. We would meet and listen to jazz recordings on occasion. At the time David was leaving the Armenian Navy Band and was about to work on some solo projects. Some time later he decided to quit his instrument and stopped playing for three years before the music called him back to performing once again. But it didn’t come without serious effort, as musicians playing brass instruments who take an indefinite break from their music have an extremely difficult time in relearning how to play, since most of the technique stems from the embouchure.

Nooz has been around for several years and in various incarnations. Although he tries to keep the lineup consistent David often finds himself relying on a different drummer for every gig he plays. This evening a vibrant, versatile drummer by the name of Pereh Nahapetyan provided the beat. He was a bit heavy handed times but he nevertheless was very impressive, consistently keeping the band tight.

I asked what the meaning of “Nooz” was, thinking it was some kind of Armenian conversational jargon that I had not heard before. “The band was originally called Zoo, but when the saxophonist left for France everything turned around, so I renamed the band Nooz,” David explained. The reasoning made perfect sense to me, anyway.

Admittedly I was never drawn to the trombone as a solo instrument in all the years of listening to jazz—adding up to about 20. Yet when I first heard David several years ago the improvised melodies that transmitted from his instrument immediately grabbed me, demanding that I understand something from the music, that I hear it. His playing style is something that is identifiable by me because it simply sounds right, as if the trombone is being played the only way it should be. Perhaps it’s better to hear him in concert to have a better grasp of what I mean.

David is accompanied by Tigran Suchian on trumpet and flugelhorn. He plays in other jazz groups as well, notably Vahakn Hayrabedyan’s Katuner and the Armenian Navy Band. Tigran is undoubtedly the best jazz trumpeter I have heard playing in Yerevan. I have seen him perform countless times and he has always impressed me, especially while playing the flugelhorn, a hauntingly beautiful but often misunderstood instrument.

Artyom Manukyan is one of the few musicians (or rather, the only one I know) who plays the cello in place of the double bass. He is an extremely talented, skilled performer, and it is always a delight to watch him on stage. It’s amazing how flexible the cello can be as it seamlessly crosses genres of music. Artyom also plays electric bass with Katuner.

David verified that about 80 percent of the tunes performed are originals. The last song he played in the set was by Duke Ellington, the others I remembered from the previous gig I attended. Nooz plays in a style that perhaps would best be described as hard bop, although it’s hard to categorize jazz no matter whether it’s played with acoustic or electric instruments. I never paid much attention to categories quite honestly. Regardless, the music must be heard by any fan of jazz or even by those who want to become familiar with it. The news starts but certainly never ends with Nooz.

Nooz can be heard at Stop club on Moscovyan Street on May 2 and once again at Ulikhanyan Club on May 15.

Labels: Arts and Entertainment, Music