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Notes From Hairenik
June 28, 2005
Government Decides to Reroute Road
Well it looks like the Armenian government’s decision to reroute the alternate road from Meghri to Kapan has been made official. The new road will avoid Shikahogh reserve altogether, but it will be 7 km longer and will cost as expected about $21 million, up from $16 million projected for the initially planned route..

But as I said earlier, environmental protection and forest regeneration organizations operating in Armenia still need to keep a close eye on this project. From what I understand there is a temporary, albeit dirt road leading up to the forest, so tree cutting may still occur. You never know with greedy Armenians.

Click here to read an article posted on Armenia Liberty (RFE/RL) about the official decision.

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June 26, 2005
What about Shikahogh?
Copyright 2005 Hetq Online
Well a quick press review shows that there is no more discussion about the Shikahogh situation. The follow-up press conference that was announced at the forum on Friday, June 17 to have been held on June 24 by the minister of transport and communication Andranik Manukyan seems to not have happened. So it is unclear what is actually happening regarding Shikahogh.

In any case, environmental NGOs working in Armenia and all Armenians worldwide should not let down their guard on this issue. You never know what the Armenian government is cooking up to resume construction.

By the way, according to a source who actually visited the forest area and traveled on the existing road from Meghri to Kapan there are no real problems in terms of usability, aside from the unavoidable road obstructions with snow during the winter months (which would also occur with the proposed road through the forest, as it is virtually inaccessible in the winter anyway).

This problem however, it seems to me, could be solved simply by investing in modern, heavy duty snow clearing equipment to ensure the road is continuously usable. It would be a lot cheaper I am sure than constructing a road costing $19 million.

Anyway, if anyone knows something that I have missed please comment below.

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June 23, 2005
Desert Nights: Trafficking of Armenian Women
On June 22, the documentary film “Desert Nights,” which examines the Armenian sex trade industry of Dubai and Armenia, premiered in Yerevan at the Naregatsi Cultural Center. The film was produced by Hetq and directed by Edik Bagdasarian, who is the editor-in-chief of “Hetq Online” and is an established investigative documentary filmmaker in Armenia. It was also televised for the first time on Yerkir Media last night. The film is the companion piece to a 12-part series of investigative articles, published earlier this year in “Hetq Online” and “Aravot” daily newspaper.

Edik Bagdasarian, who is originally from Shushi in Karabagh, and Ara Manoogian, a fellow Armenian-American who divides his life and work between Martuni, Karabagh and Yerevan, worked on the story for over a year from 2003 to late 2004. The film depicts Armenian women being seen on the streets and in the hotels of Dubai hooking, and many of them were filmed using a hidden camera. Many women agreed to be interviewed or were interviewed secretly.

Although some women work in prostitution of their own will there, many were actually tricked and brought to Dubai through an intricate trafficking network co-based in Yerevan and Dubai, most of the players of which being Armenian, even involving both UAE and Armenian authorities. Two women from Tanzania are also featured. All of the victims of trafficking are treated severely, enduring beatings and forcibly committing sex up to a dozen times a day or more, having been put into financial debt by their Armenian pimps.

The film and series of articles are very well done, brilliantly portraying a depraved, wholly illegal business that has ruined the lives of countless Armenian women, although speculated to number in the thousands. Not surprisingly, Edik commented during the Q&A session film that the trafficking situation in Turkey is far worse. And both the film and series of articles destroys the self-imposed image of Armenians being morally righteous, devout Christians, and so forth.

As a result of the investigation, Ara Manoogian is currently working on a project to save Armenian victims of trafficking. His blog can be found by clicking here.

To read the series of articles in English, which I am currently re-proof editing and in one case re-translating for purposes of proper legibility, click here.

To read the series of articles in Armenian (note: you need Armenian fonts installed on your computer to do so) click here.

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June 17, 2005
Shikahogh Update
I just left the forum that was held regarding the proposed road that would go through and subsequently destroy the Shikahogh nature and wildlife reserve. As expected, the debate was heated.

According to the minister of transport and communication Andranik Manukyan, 30,000 trees would be cut from the reserve. Minister Ministry of Environmental Protection Vardan Ayvazyan naturally downplayed the extent of damage to the reserve and its surroundings. All of the proposals that were received were rejected as being economically unfeasible, since they called for the road to be stretched an additional 20 kilometers or more to avoid cutting the reserve, thereby costing millions more to construct.

The road is expected to cost around $20 million if I remember correctly-- a lot of financial figures were thrown around. However, one National Assembly representative from Meghri, whose name I did not catch but is reportedly a party member of Stepan Demirjian's oppositional People's Party of Armenia, claims that the cut timber alone is expected to be worth $60 million on the going market. He also stressed that the intented road going through Mtnadzor, the village adjacent to the reserve, is not possible and alternative route must be decided upon.

A final decision will be presented to the general public next Friday, June 24 again at AUA, according to Minister Manukuyan.

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June 16, 2005
Shikahogh Forest

Shikahogh Forest
Originally uploaded by Notes From Hairenik.

Copyright Onnik Kirkorian

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Save Shikahogh
I want to stress the importance of saving Shikahogh state forest and wildlife reserve located in lower Syunik. Deforestation is a huge problem in Armenia and, again, due to the vochinch mentality, citizens aren't doing anything about it. Logging has become a huge money-making business as oligarghs--even ministers--are profiting from exporting rare trees indigenous to the South Caucasus and found throughout Armenia.

According to Armenian Forests NGO, "Although forests have covered approximately 35-40 percent of the country in the first millennium, B.C., and 25 percent in the beginning of the 20th century, they have recently been drastically reduced to only 8-9%."

There will be a public forum that will take place on on Friday, June 17 from 10:00-13:00 at the American University of Armenia, 5th Floor Conference Hall, 40 Baghramyan Street, Yerevan.

I wrote a story about this issue which appeared on the front page of the Armenian Weekly in the June 4 issue, but I'm unaware if the story appeared elsewhere.

To read a story I wrote about deforestation in Armenia in spring 2004, click here.

To see a Flash presentation about the reserve, click here.

To sign an online petition to President Robert Kocharian, click here.

Here is a statement from Jeffrey Tufenkian of Armenian Forests NGO:

Upon the order of Ministry of Transport and Communication of the Republic of Armenia “Transproject” CJSC has developed a project to construct a freeway from Kapan through Tsav to Shvanidzor which will cross the Mtnadzor section of the Shikahogh State Reserve. The Government of Armenia has adopted a decree which has already been submitted to President Robert Kocharian for ratification.

The Shikahogh reserve represents the habitat for about 1100 species of plants, 70 of which have been registered in the Red Book of Armenia and 18 in the Red Book of the former Soviet Union. The fauna of Shikahogh has not been explored completely but studies have already revealed rare species of animals such as leopards, bezoar, moufflon, bear, snowcock and vipers among others. Mtnadzor is the better preserved section of Shikahogh, covered with virgin forests. Breaking the conservation regime of Shikahogh will result in the mass destruction of these species and the surrounding habitat.

The passage of the road through the reserve violates several international conventions such as the UN Framework Convention on Climate Change, UN Convention on Biodiversity, UN Convention to Combat Desertification and the European Convention on Landscape which have been ratified by the Republic of Armenia. It also breaks various national laws such as those on Specially Protected Areas, on Flora and on Fauna while also contradicting the decrees of the RA Government such as the State Strategy and National Action Plan for Development of Specially Protected Natural Areas of Armenia adopted by Government Decree N54 and on the Master Plan of Settlement of the Republic of Armenia adopted by the Government Decree N610-N.

Construction of the freeway will also infringe upon the RA Law on Environmental Impact Expertise as there was no environmental impact assessment conducted for the concept of passage of the road through the natural reserve. Finally, construction activities have breach the requirements of the UNECE Convention on Access to Information, Public Participation in Decision-Making and Access to Justice in Environmental Matters (Aarhus Convention).

In the opinion of experts and non-governmental organizations there are alternatives to the road proposed by the “Transproject” CJSC, which are more expedient from the strategic and economic point of view and which will have less acute impacts on the environment.

Jeffrey Tufenkian
Armenian Forests NGO

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June 9, 2005
Guinness in a Can
This entry may only interest beer lovers who are seeking to find their favorite brew while in Armenia but with exceeding difficulty. A few weeks ago while visiting my place Onnik and I were discussing the quality of various beers and he began to complain again that Guinness on draft was not available anywhere in Yerevan. He explained that Guinness was readily available in bars throughout Tbilisi, but for some reason kegs of the stuff never made their way down to Yerevan, probably because of a lack of market or due to high import costs.

However, I assured him that Guinness in cans was the closest solution to his woe, even though he was skeptical. From my own experience with Guinness, as I am also an appreciator of the black stout, similar in appearance to liquid dark chocolate, I know that the cans include a widget floating about inside that simulates the consistency and flavor found in draft Guinness from a keg when pouring the ale out. And I knew that Guinness in a can was available in several grocery stores in Central Yerevan, including the Europa Supermarket near Sakharov Square on St. Vartanants Street. Or so I thought.

We rushed out that day in search of our grail, only to find no cans were available. Only bottles of the stuff could be found, and two different bottled versions at that. Two other stores were sold out. We instead came back with Kilikia, an excellent, albeit reasonably priced beer and a good enough compromise.

Later I continued my mission alone and went to several high-quality grocery stores mainly catering to tourists and also middle-class Armenians seeking something a bit exotic. SAS supermarket both on Mashdots and Tumanyan Streets were out. The Red Rooster market on Pushkin did not seem to stock foreign beers besides Pilsner Urquel, thankfully available most everywhere, and Holsten, which can also be found on draft at some bars/restaurants. There is another store on Mashdots across from the opera with a Russian name that has many European beers in cans, but they also were out of Guinness, although they told me it is usually stocked. Some stores stocked the bottles, but cans were nowhere to be found.

Last weekend, however, after several weeks I did find Guinness in a can, at long last, in Vanadzor of all places. Presumably Guinness can be found there since most if not all trucks carrying goods from Tbilisi go through Vanadzor, where undoubtedly much stuff is unloaded to be sold at market. Many 500 ml cans were stocked and kept cool in a refrigerator in a typical, no-name grocery store on Dikran the Great Street, near a police precinct. But the price was as high as the cost of a pint in a neighborhood bar in Boston—1500 dram or about $3.50. However, it was worth it, and I bought four cans, to my and Onnik’s delight. Indeed he agreed it wasn’t too bad at all.

As I have mentioned many times you can find most anything you need in one place or another throughout Armenia, but mostly in Yerevan. The fun part is searching for it.

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